Asheville & Black Mountain, NC

As someone who loves both being in & exploring cities as well as enjoying nature, I have long-awaited visiting Asheville, NC. I have heard amazing things about their beer scene, music scene, food scene, and I have a few friends that live there currently. In November, my partner was presenting at a conference in Black Mountain (about 15 miles east of Asheville), so I jumped at the chance for a weekend trip to NC.


Travel -
Road trip! : We actually drove down from Maryland because it was less expensive and honestly, we like doing road trips together. It was an 8-hour drive, but unlike most of our other road trips (often north to NYC, Boston, or Vermont), it was a straight-shot with little to no traffic, and gorgeous scenery. Oh, and no tolls!

Lodging -
YMCA Blue Ridge Assembly (Black Mountain, NC) : We stayed at the Blue Ridge Assembly because that is where the conference was being held. It was really peaceful, had awesome hiking trails (that I didn't take advantage of because it was cold and there was apparently a black bear sighted the day we got there), a lodge area, and some cute fire pits. The only downside was that there are no pets allowed.

Food & Drink -
Black Mountain Mill & Pizzeria (Black Mountain, NC) : This was where we got dinner our first night in. I actually didn't do a whole lot of research on Black Mountain (which is uncharacteristic for me) because I was focused so much on what to do in Asheville. This spot came up on Yelp for "currently open" and I saw they had vegetarian options. I am so glad we took the chance because the pizza was amazing, made fresh in front of us, and the service was friendly (there really is something to Southern charm). We got a medium pizza (and got the leftovers wrapped up in a foil swan), and got to try some local beer (Pisgah's Greybeard IPA - actually my favorite I tried all weekend!). Free (but limited) parking in the back of the restaurant.

City Bakery (Asheville, NC) : My second day of the trip was my day of adventure, so I needed to start it right. I began by googling "best breakfast sandwich in Asheville" and City Bakery came up, so I drove right over. They were not kidding. This was probably one of the best breakfast sandwiches I've ever had, thanks to the amazingly soft cheddar chive biscuit that was holding the overflowing egg and cheese together. I also got an iced coffee (even though it was very cold that weekend; my New England roots were showing). The only gripe I had with City Bakery was there was nowhere to sit, so I had to wait a bit longer than I expected. Free parking in the adjacent lot during the day.

Ideal breakfast: iced coffee with egg & cheese on a cheddar chive biscuit

Loretta's Cafe (Asheville, NC) : I had a goal to eat homemade pimento grilled cheese while I was in NC, but I hadn't previously researched where I could find a good version, so when it came time for lunch, I was hungry and tired and just typed "pimento grilled cheese" into Yelp. Surprisingly (or not, because I was in NC?), the cafe right across the street from where I parked had one on the menu. Not only was Loretta's pimento grilled cheese very good and straight-forward, but it was inexpensive as well (I got the whole sandwich, chips and a beer for about $9). Speaking of that beer, I tried Highland Brewing Company's Highland IPA (a no-frills IPA, but a good pairing for the pimento grilled cheese). I parked across the street in a paid lot ($5 for the entire weekend day).

Trust me. Get a pimento grilled cheese & a local beer on your next trip to NC.

Sonora Cocina Mexicana (Asheville, NC) : Went to this restaurant on a whim for dinner with my partner (he was in the conference all day and wanted to get out to see the city). We got a seat at the bar immediately, but as we sat to eat, the place filled up pretty quickly. I was a bit unsure at first because the kitchen is out in the open and I saw that every chef at this Mexican restaurant was a white dude. The bartender was friendly and recommended we start with the queso fundido (a very good idea). I ate the chilaquiles, which honestly (and again, surprisingly), were the best chilaquiles I've ever had. My partner had a chimichanga that was good, but not nearly as tasty as my dish. Parking was street parking and was free once we got there (because it was in the evening).

The Double Crown (Asheville, NC) : As I mentioned earlier, we have a few friends that live in Asheville and it happened to be one of their birthdays, so we met them out at one of their favorite bars, The Double Crown. When we walked in, I whispered to my partner, "oh, I am not cool enough to be here." It had that cool hole-in-the-wall vibe, and I quickly realized as we walked in that it was a bourbon bar and you had to sign in as a member or as a guest. Although, once we got in, everything was laid-back, the service was friendly (as was consistent my entire time in Asheville). I drank a beer (although I honestly can't tell you what it was), and had to forego bourbon (although their bourbon list was extensive!). Street parking was limited and free.

The Double Crown has perfect bathrooms (tagged walls, awesome lighting) for bathroom selfies

The Dripolator Coffeehouse (Black Mountain, NC) : On my last day before we headed home, I had to try this highly-rated coffee shop a few minutes from where we were staying. I had over an hour of time to spend, so I brought a book and was expecting to curl up in a chair and sip coffee. However, I wasn't ready for the huge crowd! Black Mountain seems like a small, sleepy mountain town, but on a Sunday morning at their most-loved coffee shop, it was busy. I still had an hour to kill, but spent most of it in line. I ended up getting a bagel and cream cheese (standard, not great but not bad), a medium coffee (good!), and a London Fog for my partner at the hotel (he really enjoyed it). I wish I would've been able to stop here at a quieter time because the vibe was great and the service was friendly, but there were no seats and the line was so long. Parking was free in an adjacent lot.

Sightseeing -
aSHEville Museum (Asheville, NC) : This museum was my favorite place to visit in Asheville. It's a women's history and feminist movement museum. It is fairly small (they boast between 8-12 exhibits) with a great gift shop in the front. You go through the exhibits first and then pay afterward (it's also pay-what-you-can, suggested $5-15 donation). I wasn't sure what to expect, but was surprised by how intersectional, queer, and global the exhibits were. I'd very much recommend this museum to anyone passing through Asheville. There is street parking outside.

The Captain's Bookshelf (Asheville, NC) : There are so many bookstores in Asheville! It seemed like every street had its own bookstore. A city after my own heart. I stumbled into The Captain's Bookshelf (it wasn't on my planned to-do list) because I needed change for parking. Once I was in there, though, the scent of used books overtook me and I had to look through the beautiful stacks (my own personal siren song). I even found a book I've been meaning to pick up (Alias Grace by Margaret Atwood, which I also highly endorse). The owner was wandering around, shelving books and helping customers find what they need. I ended up spending awhile here, and totally forgot to get change after all. There is both street parking and lot parking in the vicinity.

Malaprop's Bookstore (Asheville, NC) : This is Asheville's most popular bookstore (& they are named after a really great word). I waited to go here until the end of the day when my partner could join. It's a big space with that nice local-but-still-very-clean-and-organized-and-the-service-is-really-great vibe. I could've spent a ton of money here, but reigned it in. It looks like there are local readings, author signings, and other events here regularly, although we didn't happen upon one when we were there. My favorite thing there was their "Blind Date with a Bookseller" wall, where you buy a wrapped & concealed book based solely on its description. There is both street parking and lot parking in the vicinity.

Battery Park Book Exchange and Champagne Bar (Asheville, NC) : I clearly had to stop in here because BOOKS and CHAMPAGNE BAR. I finally got there around 2pm on a Saturday and while I would've wanted to stay awhile, there were already fairly tipsy folks (I mean, they were all drinking flutes of champagne) wandering around everywhere and it was pretty packed. I walked through the entire bookstore (which is pretty large and extensive), but left without a book or having consumed any bubbly.

I regretfully missed... -
Wicked Weed Brewing (Asheville, NC) : I actually did walk into the restaurant/brewery but it was so busy and I walked right back out (like that Grandpa Simpson gif). I hear their beer is great.

Dobra Tea (Asheville & Black Mountain, NC) : When I searched for vegan food in Asheville, this spot kept coming up. I just ran out of time to visit, but their menu (both food & tea) looks delicious.

Round Mountain Creamery (Black Mountain, NC) : I love ice cream and cheese and farms, so I am very disappointed that I wasn't able to visit this while I was there. The timing didn't work out (they are only open for tours for four hours on Fridays and Saturdays), but next time I hope to prioritize it.

Black Mountain College museum (Black Mountain, NC) : This one is one that my partner would've loved. Check out the radical history of Black Mountain College, and then collectively sigh with me that I missed the four-hour period that I could've visited the museum there.

Asheville Pinball Museum (Asheville, NC) : This seemed so cool, but it seemed like something I'd rather visit with someone else and it also cost $15 for admission (although that does include free play), so I skipped it this time around.

Well-Played (Asheville, NC) : This is a board game cafe! I love that idea, but again, didn't want to go there alone (unless they have Solitaire?).

The Hop Ice Cream Cafe (Asheville, NC) : I heard great things about The Hop, but I didn't have time to fit more food into my weekend. Next time!

In Summary -
I really enjoyed both Black Mountain and Asheville, and I wish I would've had more time to adventure through both of them. I visited mostly tourist attractions (which is okay because I'm a tourist), but I would've liked to hang out in more spots that the locals enjoy, or find more historical attractions to visit. I can't wait to visit again soon!